Glenwood Grill opened in 1990 in Glenwood Village Shopping Center on Glenwood Avenue at Oberlin Road. It’s approaching two decades old yet the interior hasn’t been allowed to become tired and the menu, too, has kept pace with the ever-changing palates of its patrons. Glenwood Grill signifies dinner to me—which is why I was most pleased to cover the lunch scene there. I loved every morsel and left wishing I tried this and that because the whole menu is noteworthy.

I managed to exchange a few words with the Grill’s chef John Wright who was telling me about the Grill’s new grill—an arduous piece of equipment that, so far at the time of this writing, had taken two days to install. The entire Glenwood Grill team has been anxiously awaiting its arrival and installation because when it’s up and cooking this grill will afford them to offer a new menu category of a la carte choices based on grilled meat and choice of sides (rather like Sullivan’s) although unlike Sullivans table d’hote choices (meat and veggie sides, all for one price) will still fill the lion’s share of the menu. Plus the a la carte prices will be fair and affordable.

After we talked equipment I managed to get some guidance from John as to what to order for lunch under the heading of what’s most popular. John quickly offered up the notion of Toasted Macadamia Nut Chicken Salad with fresh fruit ($9). I placed the order and was quite pleased with the slight sweetness of the chunky, more dry than wet chicken salad, but certainly appropriately moist and well-dressed. And kudos, too, for the chunks of mango that defined some of the fruit.
But I wasn’t through perusing the menu (it’s a tough job!) until my eyes fell on the Shrimp and Grits ($11) which wasn’t really fair for me to order since I already know it’s one of the best renditions in the Capital City: large sauteed shrimp (with tail shell intact—which I didn’t like since one wants to shovel this into one’s mouth, never mind having to make the minor surgery of removing the shell) , bacon, mushrooms, tomatoes, roasted leeks and scallions in pan juices poured swimmingly over pepper- Jack cheese grits. Heavens to Buffy St. Marie, this is good!
My lunch companion praised his Half Turkey Focaccia and cup of soup ($7). The turkey sandwich he praised as substantial but light in texture, most probably given over by the use of focaccia which is characteristically spongy.

Don’t miss dessert here, most assuredly the Banana Bread Pudding ($6) which brings bread pudding to the height of Mt. Olympus.

PILE O’ COLLARDS from Chef John Wright, Glenwood Grill Once cooked, these freeze beautifully I case (bushel) of collards, well cleaned and chopped 6 yellow onions, coarsely chopped 3 gallons of chicken stock or 3 gallons water flavored with chicken bouillon three-fourths cup Texas Pete of favorite hot sauce 2 cups Worcestershire sauce Two and a half cups cider vinegar 2 pounds chopped smoked bacon, large chop is fine Salt and pepper to taste In a large pot saute onions and bacon until onions are soft and translucent. Add all liquid, and bring to a boil. Add collards and simmer for 6 hours. When done, drain liquid off.